Bypassing the Down-Stream Injector

Bypass the down-stream injector

I had posted up some photos of the bypass system I built a while back. I never thought it would be of that much interest to others. It seems it is one of the hotter topics, discussions and items that have hit the market for a while.

Cleaned by Pete's "bypass injector system", putting in a ball valve and some pluming you can transfer the water pressure and flow around the injector which will give you the full psi and gallon flow from your power washer. We find it very useful and time saving in our washing / cleaning style.

As always there are the two schools of thought but this time it seems there are 3 schools of thought. One just take the time to shut off the machine and take out the injector save the money not needed. The second build or buy one and use it, time saving, full power, and very very needed. The third it does not make that much difference so who cares.

Cleaned by Pete bypass injector unit, by trowing the red handle on the ball-valve you can bypass the downstream injector. In doing so you will have the full potential of power and flow from your washer.

I happen to fall in to the second group of thought. Fairly obvious other wise why would I build one then blog and wright about it. The time saving I found is this: I use to remove the injector but this is much easier for me. I would have to turn off the pump, let is stop then walk to the other side relieve the head pressure which meant I would have to drag back the gun and hose back to the truck. This is true in my case if I had been using a weep gun then this step would not be necessary. I just don't like a gun not shutting off the water flow completely. I would relieve the head pressure then pop out the injector put the line back together. I still had to walk back to the other side where my motor is pull start it, yes I'm still old school no electric starter on the washer. After starting walk around get the gun and return to work with full power. Now it is just walk to the truck throw the ball-valve and walk back. In my case it works for me so I use it.

Cleaned by Pete's bypass injector unit.

The extra pressure and flow dose make a difference when using a smaller psi unit. Most know I do mostly house and residential cleaning. So a smaller psi unit is fine the extra power for doing driveways and concrete comes in handy and makes the job quicker. I have also noticed I have been using just a bit less gas with it in bypass mode seems the motor and pump are not working as hard all the time. Everyone knows it harder to push water through a longer hose it seems to make sense it would be harder to push water through that little hole in the injector.

Adaptors to be able to place the "injector bypass system" in line without taking or replacing any fittings and on anyone’s power washer. Cleaned by Pete bypass injector unit.

I'm not here to argue nor try to change your point of view but these bypass systems have a place on my trucks. I believe they save me time, are easy to use, give you the full potential of power and flow from your machine. I also think they may make your machine work less, relives some ware and tear, and save on fuel. All a big plus in my book. 

I was asked how does this work with only one ball valve should you not need to to shut off one and open the other? Good question to which my limited under standing of physics, from my college classes was this. "In theory since a liquid will take the least path of resistance it will also flow faster and in volume thru the unimpeded path. Making the this path the straightest flow should also help, that is why the ball valve is in the short straight line. Water being a liquid too should take the least path of resistance. With that it should not have a enough pressure to create the low pressure zone inside the injector, causing it not to draw in the soaps or cleaners. Since the injector has a very small venturi in it is causes water to back up at that point. Water is forced trough the small hole This is the point we loose psi and flow, so if we open a much large hole (the ball valve) it will flow there easier. Water will back up at the injector which then helps to divert the flow to the larger opening. No need for the 2nd ball valve. Of course by shutting down the ball valve you force the water into the other line, cause the injector to work once again. This is only what I understand about liquid dynamics."

Whether this is correct or not I'm not sure, but this is the internet and a some "internet cowboy" out there would have by now surly corrected the statement.  As of today still no correction or interjection on said statement.

Most of the contractors that have tried them agree they are worth the cost and effort to build them. There are several variations on the unit no one's idea is wrong we all build and think differently. My bypass is built this way because these are the parts I had on the shelf to build it out of. You don't need hoses you can use hard lines you can use water pipe and fittings you don't need quick connects I used them to be able to move the unit for point to point and to use on other washes be them mine or another contractor we have worked with.

  

The picture of the adaptors are for use when placing the unit. While I tried to have all my connections the same it is enviable that you run in to a placement where things don't work the adaptors help to take care of that.

Cleaned by Pete

just a power / pressure washing company in Springfield Missouri

417.459.7869