Since You Asked; The how and why plumbing on my power-washing truck

This is an outgrowth of the last post on feeding the power washer, with the how and why plumbing on my power-washing set-up. Now I want to say I had a fellow washer ask the other day how and why I set up my service truck. Why did I do this or that, the best answer is I wanted to make it easy for me to use and to assure you as a customer that when I show up the job will be done.

Other washers in the business my not see or find it to their liking. Everyone works different and wants something to fit them. As I stated before I started off in the business as a hood washer, using the heated washer as a tool in the hood cleaning business not as a "pressure washer". Working at night often in an other state one has to become self-proficient at get and keep things running and dealing with emergencies. What if your injector quits working, what if you don't want to have the injector in line? What if you're working with someone else who set their equipment up differently? A burst hose, problems with the pump or motor. Do you stop and tell them I'll be back when I get it fixed? Being able to fix or in my case rearrange things on the fly is why I have done what I have done. I will get the job done and repair back at the shop. Setting up my plumbing with quick connects and the way I have done it works for the way I do things.

The first thing is we always had a back-up washer on board, today is no different with me. Two Mi-T-M washers now go with me on every job overkill or underkill I don't know. Both belt driven models with different outputs which does not enter in to this entry. Why not just get a "new big skid" to use instead? I'm asked my answer even a "new big skid" can and do have problems don't they how often do you want me to replace with a new skid? This year I added a second hose reel also, one for each of the washers usually but often I want to switch from one to the other with out having both reels out. I have things set up to use no injector, an injector bypass or have the option of using different injectors in several different places depending on the hose length. I now have the option to use each washer by it self, both working and linked together, both separately running at the same time, several combinations have opened up for cleaning this year. Making it easy to hook and unhook these washer is a must and to be able to do it at on the job site is a must. Options depending on what Cleaned by Pete is doing.

I have achieved most of this with the use of quick connects for the high-pressure lines. I have some photos to help explain what I'm doing I hope they help to clear things up. I have made thing easier by mounting washers, hose reels, soap tanks and other items to the truck permanently. Meaning this is a dedicated work rig. It is our 2nd work rig these trucks are for work you don't take them to the mall or out to eat dinner. This I feel shows more dedication to the business, I know other may not see it the same way, but once again nobody is all right or all wrong, just an opinion.

Working with a range of whips, short hoses, the injector bypass, several quick connects put together and arranged is different ways and spare injectors we can hook up and into several different arrangements.

Some of the leads and different hose connections that Cleaned by Pete may need to use.

Some of the leads and different hose and quick connections that Cleaned by Pete may need to use.

I will start with the pump heads both these Mi-T-M units use a block or remote unloader mounts. I have always like this way of setting up an unloader better than hanging it off the pump head. You can change it out easier and work on it with much more access, on a side note I have this remote unloader setup on most of our power washers.

Placing a quick connect off the unloader is our first line of making it easy. You can just unplug or plug in what you need it also aids us when winterizing the equipment.

This is a larger line that goes to the next piece of equipment the hose-reel. I can add in a chemical injector at this point if I wish, or move this connection over to the other washer to use it if I wish,

The unloader at this pump is also on a remote block the quick connect is pointing down off the 90* fitting for more room.

Things are still very tight the unloader is right beside the water input which is feed from the garden hose and the homeowners outside water tap. It has a filter on it to help us keep any forien particles from entering the pump.

Shown with the jumper hose attached. Again have the option of running it to the hose-reel an injector or to a hose. These short hose work out well to help pump in and pump out the antifreeze during the winter.

I like to put the chemical injector inline between the unloader and the pump head. I have found my system does not draw as well if I place the injector right in front of the hose reel. I like to use some hose between seems to draw chemicals / soap better on my system.

By-pass injector set up to the top hose-reel the soap tank is the white tank on the left and is feed by the white line leading to the adjustable chemical injector. By turning the ball valve you can by pass the injector having full pressure and flow to the rest of the system.

Our injector in line to the hose-reel all components have quick connects so you can quickly make changes in the system. Again depending on the lead to what washer is feeding it.

The lead of feed hose runs unseen under the chrome rail alone the trucks flat bed.

Now arriving at the hose-reel, If you have not guessed...... yes quick connects once again. The hoses are also fitted to the hose-reels with the same style quick connects I can unroll unhook and plug in to the other hoses if I should need more. Also if a hose should burst I can unhook and replace making quick time of it with out having to get out the tools. The burst hose is out of the system and I can keep going on with the work. If a pump, motor, or unloader in either system just moving the output hose over and the water feed I'm back in business again. 

Lead hose at the top hose reel.

Top hose-reel connected.

Same lead hose connected to the bottom reel.

By running another jumper and hooking it up to the other reel I can use both washer with either reel having the option of two men working.

I now have the option of using both pumps to one output hose by using a Siamese linking system again it can be hooked to the injector then to what ever reel I wish to use. Having a 9 gpm output. Again this is the way I have chosen to do my plumbing on my outfit. Right or wrong it serves me the best. With the use of quick connects I have tried to make thing easy to fix and trouble shoot.

Cleaned by Pete

just a power washer serving the greater Ozarks 

based in Springfield MO

Both Cleaned by Pete's power washers together, the green hoses are return lines to the tank.

The green hoses are return (bypass) lines to the water tank one pump is tank feed the other is pressure feed. The pressure fed washer uses the tank as a dump tank in bypass mode, helping to keep the pump unit cooler (not recycling water). When using both pumps the dumping bypass helps to feed the water fed pump system.

Both Cleaned by Pete's pressure washers together, the green hoses are return lines to the tank. The gray with red stripped hose on the reel is the feed hose for the system.

Replumbing in a New Pump EZ4040 the Cleaned by Pete Way

Plumbing a New Pump

I was going to wait till later this week for this entry but weather is breaking and I thought I may not have time to get it in, so I thought I would just do it now. 

Since I have been in the power washing business I have always done my own maintenance and repairs. Coming form a mechanical background, I worked machine shops, lathe operator, welder, motorcycle mechanic and tech, I have the field well covered. I have worked and reworked some or our equipment to make it easier to use, repair, and just to please me. I visit our local power / pressure washing suppliers quite often to pick up parts and fittings. One of the salesmen once said I was the only customer that could come in and pick and plumb an entire unit with out help. If I had to wait on getting it fixed or repaired I could loose some business. Knowing what to do is a must even field repairs can be made to last or even to just get you finished with a job.

I do allot of thing that are not required but will help in the long run. I'm using the term replumbing though I'm just plumbing it since it came preplumbed. Confused yet? Well I hope you understand more by the time the entry comes to an end. Some of the things I add in or on are just for me, things would work fine the other way but I went in and had to change them for a few reasons. This entry is about one replumbing job and why I changed thing and how. To set things up I needed to rebuild a pump and to replace an ageing unloader that was starting to stick at the end of the last washing season. Which boils down to loss of pressure and could not relay on the unloader to cycle correctly. Normally I would just rebuild and replace worn parts but there was a "Christmas Special" on from the good folks at The Power Wash Store, (that no one could beat plus they are good folks to deal with) the General EZ4040 which came with everything ready to bolt on and go.

The EZ4040 pump is made by General Pump and is rated at 4000 psi putting out 4 gpm and comes fully plumed with unloader and safety pop-off ready to work or mount in even in the field. I believe it has a manufacture's 5 year warranty.

With the sale price it worked out being not much more expensive to have everything new than to buy a rebuild kit, new valves, and a new AR style unloader and them still put it all together. The new pump was unboxed and I was ready to put it on.

Unboxing the new EZ4040 that will soon be mounted to one the the hot water units used by Cleaned by Pete.

The first step was to remove the old pump and unloader from the motor. It was one of the rare days this winter when it was nice enough to work outside. You can see we could do this in the field, without any extra work and with hand tools if a pump should go down. Four main bolts hold the pump in place and a setscrew securing the key way, removing pressure lines and other fittings may be needed. Since I had streamlined this pump with "quick connects" and the AR style unloader just pumped back in to the head this unit was quickly pulled off after the removal of the pressure switch. I don't care for this style of unloader for a couple of reasons one is you can not plumb it to a reserve tank, I feel they get hotter quicker since they recycle the water in such a small area. and lastly you can not put them where you want them to be. They must be mounted to the head of the pump.

Cleaned by Pete removing the old pump and unloader, You can see this pump and unloader are not as robustly made as the new General Pump. This pump has worked for us for the last 4 or 5 years after, I put in new head bolts (larger stainless steel allen head bolts), different valves, reworked the downstream injector, added quick connects, and had to fix the packing shortly after buying the unit.

With a few tools I stripped the old pump off.

Cleaned by Pete working in his out door work shop taking advantage of a rare warm winter's day, "repairing and replumbing one of the hot water units with a new EZ4040 pump form the Power Wash Store.

Removal of the pump, the key-way and pressure switch: tools needed a socket and socket wrench metric size to remove and standard American to replace, Allen-set and a wrench to fit the pressure switch. You will see Cleaned by Pete's tools section will start to grow in later pictures

The pressure switch seen above, is a switch that closes a electrical connection when pressure is built in the pump. When this connection is closed by pressure and will let the burner turn on to heat the water in the boiler coil. This ensures the burner will not be on if pressure is not being built or if the unloader is open. Running only when needed and not over heating the water which could be dangerous.

The next step is to fit the new pump in or on the 15 HP motor. The pump is ready to go to work as soon as it is mounted, but I just need to make a few changes before I would be what I wanted to work with.

EZ4040 in place all plumbed form the box ready to go. Cleaned by Pete just wants to make a few changes.

Cleaned by Pete changing over to a new EZ4040 General Pump

I temporarily hang the pump using some small bolts to check for fit and spacing. Remember the pump would have worked and been OK and ready to go as in the photo above. I use the female quick connects off a pump or hose-reel, no problem I could just change out the last fitting to a female quick connect but I wanted to make it just a bit easier to use for my own taste. I also like a longer bypass hose to help reduce the shock of the unloader coming on and off. I prefer a remote unloader block to reduce vibration of the motor and pump, and I wanted to keep things streamlined, nothing hanging out to snag or grab me as I walk by. Making things easier for myself, seems to make thing go faster and more efficiently. I just had to change a few things. I had most of the parts in stock in my repair and replacement bend so this is what I did.

Installed the pressure switch then installed the key-way and the pump (still using to small temporary mounting bolts on the pump). I then stripped off the unloader, inlet, and bypass hose. Cleaned by Pete fitting and plumbing a new pump.

There was a port for the pressure switch just had to remove a cap and screw in the pressure switch fitting using Teflon tape.

By using a remote unloader block I have the option of where to place the unloader on the units surface where I found the best fit. Connecting hoses and fitting things to see if I like it and if it will be easy to get at or repair if needed. Cleaned by Pete has changed the end to a quick connect female, temporary hung the unloader in place and is checking the placement of the hose lines.

Running a longer pressure hose to the unloader will reduce some of the shock when pulling the trigger and letting off. I have always felt this helps to make the pump and system last longer. Using the brass 90* fitting with the "smooth transition" will help to keep maximum pressure, I'll fit the high pressure line to the remote mounting block.

With the use of a drill  and two 1/4" bolts I was able to locate the remote block up higher on the frame, instead of having it on the pump head. With the use of a 6000 psi section of hose and a smooth flow 90* brass fitting I could move the unloader to a better location. I found a spot where I would be able to remove the unloader or its components easily with out trouble or hassle of other thing in the way, and still use existing hoses for the boiler.

Adding the longer return line helps a bit to keep things cooler. In the picture you can see Cleaned by Pete still needs to put on hose clamps, on the return line just to make sure it doesn't pop off.

Unloader  view from the top; plumed to the remote block, pressure switch, pop off valve, and all lines in place everything is starting to take shape. Cleaned by Pete Springfield MO.

Cleaned by Pete is putting on a new EZ4040 General Pump and has moved the unloader to a different location. You can now see I have everything streamlined and a bit more tidy, if you look closely you can still see the temporary mounting bolts in place soon to be replaced with the larger mounting pattern 3/8" bolts the pump came with.

A view form the top, The high pressure line leads to the boiler coil but if I wish I can run cold water washing from this point not having to run it through the coil keeping up optimal pressure. Cleaned by Pete pluming in a new EZ4040 pump his way.

By reading the captions under each photo you'll start to understand why I did this. I feel I now have the ease of repair and reducing ware on the pump. The unit is a bit more streamlined do to the larger more rugged construction of the pump that took up a bit more space. Getting away form the AR style unloader which now means I have the choice to use or not to use the burner coil for heating water or keeping pressure up to the max if using just cold water by hooking in my hose at the unloader. I have the remote block to take and reduce any vibration on the unloader this is just one of my pet peeves I just hate the unloader sticking out of a pump sticking off the motor, jiggling around. There is nothing wrong with it but it is not for me. Longer bypass and high pressure lines with sweeping curves help to keep things cooler and keep the shock from triggering on and off. I also have removed the red oil shipping cap replaced it with the yellow oil dipstick / cap. Tightened the setscrew on the keyway and replace the small temporary bolts with the 3/8" bolts that were included with the new pump to secure the pump to the motor. All fittings were wrapped with Teflon tape to insure no leakage.

We tested the pump for leaks the next day and set the unloader to the proper level of pressure using a gauge and the proper nozzle size. Cleaned by Pete is now ready to do some cleaning, with this hot water unit. Hoping it give us another 4 or 5 years of service.

To sum things up the General Pump EZ4040 mount and go pump is great and easy to mount. There is nothing wrong with it as it comes out of the box. I had a chance to mount and plumb things up before the season starts my way and I took it. There is not scary science to doing it yourself, working on and getting to know more about your power washers is a good thing. Getting things ironed out and working how I like them to be now seems like the right thing to do. This pump is a great back-up pump to have ready to go if you should go down. It's quick mounting and fully plumbed including oil is a must if one is in the field. I now will have time to rebuild the old pump this year and have it standing by and waiting if it should need to be pressed into service once again. Since all the new lines are run and the unloader is relocated the feed line, high pressure line and pressure switch will all work with the old pump when the old unloader is removed an pitched.

Cleaned by Pete serving the greater Springfield and Southwest MO area

417.459.7869